A person who’s been to Paris and visited places like Pain de Sucre, Arnaud Delmontel, or Gerard Mulot knows how magically delicious a millefeuille or pain au chocolat can be. Then when said person returns to New York, it becomes obvious that the same level of craft is very hard to find- even in one of the most cosmopolitan, food-obsessed cities in the world. But hard to find doesn’t mean nonexistent. If you know where to go, there are a few outstanding patisseries in New York. Here are my picks.
DOMINIQUE ANSEL KITCHEN
Dominique Ansel created the cronut, which as the name indicates, is part croissant and part doughnut. It was a sensation, spawning imitations nationwide. Last year he opened a highly anticipated restaurant focused on desserts, where customers can see a team of pastry chefs preparing delicacies like Baba au Rhum made with Guinness Beer-soaked brioche and malt cream.
AUX MERVEILLEUX DE FRED
This bakery was born in Northern France, and it became a hit with locals who lined up to have their Merveilleux, puffs of meringue and whipped cream covered in toppings like Belgian chocolate bits, or praline and caramelized hazelnuts. I almost keeled over when I saw they’d opened a shop in the West Village. The brioches are also so, so good.
Chef Zachary Golper and his wife, Kate Wheatcroft, opened Bien Cuit in Brooklyn’s lovely Boerum Hill area. Zachary was nominated this year for a James Beard Award for Outstanding Baker and the honor is well deserved. The croissants are heavenly.